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据Pamir Times,Mummery 山脊以 1895 年尝试攀登南迦帕尔巴特峰时死于雪崩的登山者 Mummery 命名。
原文引用 1 处
「a mountaineer killed in 1895 by avalanche while trying to scale the peak」
Pamir Times · 2019-03-09
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据ITV News,Ballard 在 2015 年成为首位在同一个冬季独攀阿尔卑斯六大北壁的人。
原文引用 1 处
「In 2015 Mr Ballard became the first person ever to solo climb all six major north faces of the Alps in one winter.」
ITV News · 2019-03-09
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据Climber,2016 年南迦帕尔巴特峰完成首次冬季登顶,但路线不是 Mummery 山脊。
原文引用 2 处
「The first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat was made in 2016」
Climber · 2019-03-06
「although not via the Mummery Spur which Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi were attempting to climb」
Climber · 2019-03-06
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两人于 2018 年 12 月底抵达巴基斯坦,到基地营后因恶劣天气和深雪进展缓慢。
原文引用 2 处
「They had arrived in Pakistan at the end of December 2018」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「The two men arrived with their team at base camp in December, but made little progress up the mountain due to harsh weather and deep snow along the route.」
Outside · 2019-03-10
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这是 Ballard 第一次登上 8000 米级山峰,此前他从未到过 6000 米以上;Nardi 则已在南迦帕尔巴特峰尝试过多次(报道称四次)。
原文引用 3 处
「It was his first time on an 8,000-meter peak, and he’d never even been above 6,000 meters.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「Nardi had attempted to climb Nanga Parbat on four previous occasions.」
Climber · 2019-03-06
「had already tried Nanga Parbat in winter four times」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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据Explorersweb,Ballard 写道,一号营地设在约 4700 米处;三号营地约 5700 米,位于冰裂缝中,仍常有风。
原文引用 2 处
「We established Camp 1 at 4,700m.」
Explorersweb · 2019-01-30
「Camp 3 (circa 5,700m) is situated in a crevasse/bergschrund.」
Explorersweb · 2019-01-30
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据Explorersweb,Ballard 日志写到,他们试图在约 6000 米处建四号营地,但风大得几乎站不稳,只能把一包装备固定在冰锥上,撤回三号营地。
原文引用 1 处
「We could barely stand up in the wind. So we left a rucksack full of kit attached to three ice screws and abseiled back down to Camp 3.」
Explorersweb · 2019-01-30
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据Climbing,据 Ballard 的记述,他们多次上到二、三号营地,但因雪崩威胁数次未过夜就折返,上去时还发现帐篷被雪埋。
原文引用 2 处
「Always the threat of avalanches made us turn back without spending the night」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「Each time they went back up, they found their tents buried by recent slides.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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据Climbing,Ballard 还写到,他们曾因为感觉不好而从一号营地折返,不久之后一次大雪崩吞没了他们的上升路线。
原文引用 2 处
「We even turned back from [Camp I] because we didn’t have a good feeling.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「Well-founded as a huge avalanche engulfed our line of ascent shortly after.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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遇难的两人是 30 岁的英国登山者 Tom Ballard 和 42 岁的意大利登山者 Daniele Nardi,他们尝试在 Mummery 山脊开辟一条新路线。
原文引用 2 处
「were attempting a new route on the Mummery Rib, a steep and dangerous avalanche-prone area on the Himalayan peak」
Outside · 2019-03-10
「The men were the 42-year old Italian climber Daniele Nardi and 30-year-old Tom Ballard of the U.K.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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2 月 24 日,两人最后一次联系基地营和家人,卫星电话定位显示他们在约 6300 米处。
原文引用 3 处
「The pair last made contact on February 24 from an elevation of around 6,300 meters (nearly 20,700 feet) on Nanga Parbat.」
ITV News · 2019-03-09
「The GPS data from that call put Nardi and Ballard at 6,300 meters.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「dopo aver raggiunto i 6.300 metri erano dovuti tornare per il maltempo al campo 4」
Il Post · 2019-03-09
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据Climbing,据 Climbing 杂志,Nardi 在通话中说他们正下撤到约 6000 米的四号营地躲避风暴。
原文引用 1 处
「He said that they were descending to 6,000 meters」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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关于最后一次联系的内容,说法不一:Climbing 称他们说要继续下撤到三号营地;美国之音称他们说第二天要继续向上。
下撤还是继续上升,两家说法相反
原文引用 2 处
「He made one final call to base camp to say the two were going to try to descend further, to Camp III at 5,700 meters.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「saying they would be moving upward the next day」
VOA · 2019-03-09
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最后联系的日期有 2 月 24 日和 2 月 23 日两种说法,多数来源写 2 月 24 日。
Pamir Times 写 2 月 23 日
原文引用 2 处
「The pair last made contact on February 24」
ITV News · 2019-03-09
「The two mountaineers had made last contact with their base camp on February 23.」
Pamir Times · 2019-03-09
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此后基地营联系不上两人,早期搜救因天气不佳和印巴紧张局势而受阻,周边空域一度关闭。
原文引用 2 处
「Early searches were disrupted by the conflict between Pakistan and India over disputed territories in Kashmir.」
Grough · 2019-03-09
「the air space around Nanga Parbat has been totally closed off, including to rescue helicopters」
Outside · 2019-03-10
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据Climber,2 月 28 日,巴基斯坦陆军直升机在 5100 至 7000 米之间对山脊进行了约三个半小时的搜索,没有发现人,只看到约 5500 米处有一顶帐篷。
原文引用 2 处
「On February 28th Pakistan Army helicopters made an extensive three and a half hour search of the Mummery Spur between 5100m and 7000m.」
Climber · 2019-03-06
「They didn’t find any sign of the climbers but reported seeing a tent at about 5500m.」
Climber · 2019-03-06
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据Outdoor Journal,Txikon 当时正在尝试 K2 冬季攀登,他基本放弃了自己的攀登来领导这次搜救。
原文引用 1 处
「Experienced Spanish climber Alex Txikon mostly abandoned his own winter attempt on K2, to lead the search and rescue effort.」
Outdoor Journal · 2019-03-11
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推测:Txikon 认为两人当时可能已经很冷、很疲惫,风很大、时间又晚,任何小失误都可能致命。
原文引用 1 处
「They were probably really cold and exhausted. It was high wind. It was late.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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推测:Simone Moro 认为两人可能被从上方坠落的冰块击中,他说 Mummery 山脊的真正危险不是普通雪崩,而是两侧悬冰塔的崩落。
原文引用 2 处
「they were hit by a block of falling ice」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「big parts of seracs falling from above」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
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3 月初天气不好,直升机一度无法起飞;西班牙登山者 Alex Txikon 的小队和巴基斯坦登山者 Ali Sadpara 随后赶到基地营加入搜救。
原文引用 2 处
「Unfortunately, bad weather in early March prevented the search helicopters from flying.」
Climber · 2019-03-06
「four Spanish rescuers were flown to the area by military helicopter on Monday and were joined by Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara at base camp」
ITV News · 2019-03-09
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据Climber,3 月 4 日,《泰晤士报》网站引述 Simone Moro 称,尝试 Mummery 山脊因雪崩风险是“自杀式”的。
这是 Moro 对该路线的评价,不是对本次事故原因的结论。
原文引用 1 处
「an attempt on the Mummery Spur was “suicidal” because of avalanches」
Climber · 2019-03-06
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3 月 5 日,搜救队上到二号营地上方,一座冰塔坍塌引发雪崩,队员被迫躲避,无人机失控;队员认为继续沿山脊上行十分危险。
原文引用 2 处
「a serac fell about 500 above them causing an avalanche and they had to take evasive action to escape the avalanche」
Climber · 2019-03-10
「a serac fell around 500 meters above and triggered an avalanche」
Explorersweb · 2019-03-09
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3 月 6 日 Climber 杂志报道,搜救未发现踪迹,两人被推定遇难,搜救一度暂停。
原文引用 2 处
「Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi are presumed dead.」
Climber · 2019-03-06
「The continuing rescue operation was suspended on Wednesday but resumed after two ‘silhouettes’ were spotted on the mountain.」
Grough · 2019-03-09
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Txikon 在基地营与一号营地之间用望远镜换了一个角度观察山脊,在约 5900 米处看到了两人,并拍下照片和视频。
原文引用 2 处
「This position enabled a different perspective and Txikon successfully located the two bodies at c.5900m.」
Climber · 2019-03-10
「The two “shapes” at about 5,900m that Alex Txikon spotted two days ago through a telescope」
Explorersweb · 2019-03-09
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关于发现的方式和日期说法不一:Climbing 称 3 月 5 日 Txikon 用无人机看到,且高度约 5800 米;其他来源称约 3 月 7 日用望远镜发现,高度约 5900 米。
日期与手段、高度(5800/5900 米)互相矛盾
原文引用 2 处
「Two days later, on March 5, Txikon spotted Ballard and Nardi’s bodies with the drone.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「On the final day of the search (March 7th) Alex Txikon once more scoured the Mummery Spur using his telescope」
Climber · 2019-03-10
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3 月 9 日,意大利驻巴基斯坦大使 Pontecorvo 宣布,Txikon 与搜救队确认在约 5900 米处看到的人影就是 Nardi 和 Ballard,搜索结束。
原文引用 2 处
「the silhouettes spotted on Mummery at about 5900 meters are those of Daniele and Tom」
ITV News · 2019-03-09
「i corpi dei due alpinisti sono stati infine avvistati con il telescopio sulla parete, a circa 5.900 metri」
Il Post · 2019-03-09
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据Outside,遗体所在位置是山脊上的一条小沟,高度比三号营地略高,低于四号营地。
原文引用 2 处
「It showed their bodies positioned in a small gulley at approximately 19,356 feet on the Mummery spur.」
Outside · 2019-03-10
「This was a bit higher than their Camp 3 location but below Camp 4.」
Outside · 2019-03-10
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据Explorersweb,据 Explorersweb,遗体并未被雪崩掩埋,所在位置难以到达,且该段山脊每天有数次雪崩,本季无法取回。
原文引用 2 处
「The bodies, which had not been buried in an avalanche as originally thought, are in a difficult-to-reach location.」
Explorersweb · 2019-03-09
「Several avalanches per day are raking that part of the Mummery Spur, and it will not be possible to retrieve them this season.」
Explorersweb · 2019-03-09
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Nardi 的团队在其 Facebook 页面发表声明,称寻找已经结束,“他们的一部分将永远留在南迦帕尔巴特”。
原文引用 2 处
「A part of them will always remain on the Nanga Parbat.」
Climber · 2019-03-10
「A part of them will always remain on Nanga Parbat.」
VOA · 2019-03-09
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遇难原因报道中没有结论,可能是坠落、雪崩,或两者兼有。
原文引用 1 处
「The cause of death is unknown. It may have been a fall, an avalanche, or a combination of the two.」
Outside · 2019-03-10
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推测:Climber 杂志提到两人似乎仍用绳子连在一起,且照片中可见雪崩碎屑,因此有人推测其中一人坠落,可能与雪崩有关。
原文引用 1 处
「As both climbers appear to be roped together still, speculation is that one of the climbers had fallen - possibly as a result of an avalanche」
Climber · 2019-03-10
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推测:Reinhold Messner 认为两人可能被雪崩卷走。
原文引用 1 处
「La sua ipotesi è che i due siano stati travolti da una valanga.」
Il Fatto Quotidiano · 2019-03-10
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据Il Fatto Quotidiano,Messner 评价说,几年前他曾对 Nardi 说过,攀登 Mummery 山脊不是英雄行为,而是愚蠢。
原文引用 1 处
「salire sullo sperone Mummery non è un atto eroico, ma è stupidità」
Il Fatto Quotidiano · 2019-03-10
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遗体未被运下山:2019 年的报道称暂时无法取回;Climbing 杂志(2022 年)写道遗体仍在山上,并称 Nardi 的家人希望不要取回遗体。
家人的意愿只有 Climbing 一家提到。
原文引用 2 处
「Ballard’s and Nardi’s bodies remain on Nanga Parbat. Nardi’s family expressed their wish that the bodies not be recovered.」
Climbing · 2022-10-16
「I corpi non possono essere recuperati, almeno per ora.」
Il Post · 2019-03-09
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据ITV News,南迦帕尔巴特峰海拔 8126 米,位于巴基斯坦吉尔吉特-巴尔蒂斯坦地区,是世界第九高峰。
原文引用 1 处
「Located in Pakistan's Gilgit Baltistan area, it is the ninth highest mountain in the world at 8,126 metres (26,660 feet).」
ITV News · 2019-03-09
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Mummery 山脊此前从未被人完整攀登过;据报道,仅有 Messner 兄弟在 1970 年从该山脊下撤。
原文引用 2 处
「mai percorsa se non in discesa dai fratelli Messner quando uno dei sue, Gunther, perse la vita」
Il Fatto Quotidiano · 2019-03-10
「Non ci era mai riuscito nessuno, e tantomeno d’inverno」
Il Post · 2019-03-09