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据Explorersweb,哈格里夫斯的计划是在同一年内不用瓶装氧气攀登珠峰、K2和干城章嘉峰。
原文引用 1 处
「She wanted to climb Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga in one year without bottled oxygen.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-17
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希拉里事后回顾说,风暴逼近时继续上行显然不对;他当时也曾想,继续上行的人是否知道什么自己不知道的情况。
希拉里本人的看法,分别见于他的自述和Explorersweb的引述
原文引用 2 处
「That storm was coming in, and it was incredibly obvious that going on was not the right thing to do」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
「I wondered if they knew something I didn’t.」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
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据Explorersweb,1995年5月13日,哈格里夫斯登上珠峰,被报道为首位不用瓶装氧气、无支援登顶珠峰的女性。
原文引用 1 处
「She topped out on May 13, becoming the first woman to climb Everest unsupported without supplemental oxygen.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-17
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据AAJ,据美国队报告,哈格里夫斯所在的第二批队员于6月25日抵达K2大本营,先到的一组当时已在山上建好前进营地和1号营。
原文引用 1 处
「by the time the second group of climbers arrived in Base Camp on June 25」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,美国队报告,天气恶劣,数次冲顶尝试因此中止,一度连续11天降雪。
原文引用 1 处
「At one point, it snowed for 11 consecutive days.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,7月15日,美国队与荷兰队员和高山协作一起在黑金字塔一带固定路绳,并在略低于24000英尺处建起3号营。
原文引用 1 处
「establish Camp 3 at just under 24,000 feet on July 15」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据Explorersweb,据西班牙队员奥尔塔斯回忆,哈格里夫斯在冲顶前说过,登完K2后不会去干城章嘉峰,而是回苏格兰陪孩子。
出自奥尔塔斯的转述
原文引用 1 处
「Hargreaves told them before the summit push that she would not go to Kangchenjunga after K2」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-17
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据Explorersweb,Explorersweb评论说,登顶者都是经验丰富、适应良好的强手,出发时天气稳定,他们认为有足够时间在坏天气到来前登顶并返回。
评论性判断
原文引用 2 处
「They were experienced and well-acclimatized.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
「They thought there was enough time to top out and return before any potential bad weather.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
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8月6日,美国队多数人因家中事务请搬运工下山离队;斯莱特留下,准备与新西兰队一起再试一次,哈格里夫斯在最后时刻也决定留下。
原文引用 2 处
「At the last minute Hargreaves decided to stay and climb with Slater and the Kiwis as well.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「Hargreaves, who almost gave up her attempt, decided at the last minute to stay and climb with Slater and the Kiwis.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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西班牙队6名队员(医生留守)于8月9日晚9点从大本营出发做最后一次冲顶尝试。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「all six climbers (but not the doctor) started from Base Camp at 9 p.m. on August 9 for the final attempt.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「six climbers from Garces’ Spanish team started from Base Camp at 9 pm on August 9」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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据AAJ,8月12日黎明,五名西班牙队员翻上肩部,在海拔约7950米处建起4号营。
原文引用 1 处
「the five Spanish climbers surmounted the shoulder and set up Camp 4 (7950 meters) at dawn on August 12.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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8月12日上午约10点,斯莱特、哈格里夫斯和新西兰队的希拉里等人从阿布鲁齐山脊上来,到西班牙队的4号营拜访;当时天气晴好,看上去稳定。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「Then, at about 10 a.m., they received a visit from five climbers who had walked up via the Abruzzi Ridge.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「On August 12, at about 10 am, they were visited by Slater, Hargreaves, Hillary, Logan, and one more climber」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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各队商定,8月13日午夜一起出发冲顶。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「In view of the favorable conditions, they all arranged for a joint attempt to start the following day at midnight.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「With favorable weather conditions, they arranged for a joint attempt the next day at midnight.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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西班牙队的奥尔塔斯身体不适,留在4号营;其余人午夜先行出发,斯莱特、哈格里夫斯和新西兰队的格兰特约一小时后从他的帐篷旁经过继续上行。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 3 处
「Not feeling well enough for the attempt, Ortas had decided to remain at Camp 4, waiting for the return of his companions.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「About one hour later, Slater, Hargreaves and New Zealander Bruce Grant went past Ortas」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「One hour after the Spaniards left Camp 4, Slater, Hargreaves, and Grant went past Ortas」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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西班牙队领队加尔塞斯因脚冷,在到达瓶颈前很早就折返,下撤途中遇到了正在上行的斯莱特、哈格里夫斯和格兰特。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「Garcés, suffering from cold feet, had turned back, long before the Bottleneck.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「Garces returned from the summit push long before the Bottleneck.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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8月13日中午,有八名登山者在海拔8200至8300米之间,沿瓶颈冰沟缓慢上行并横切。
Explorersweb的叙述与希拉里自述相同
原文引用 2 处
「At noon on the 13 August there were eight climbers between 8200 and 8300 metres ascending slowly up the Bottle Neck ice gully」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
「At noon on August 13, there were eight climbers between 8,200m and 8,300m ascending slowly up the Bottleneck」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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据Peter Hillary,彼得·希拉里自述,他当时对天气感到不安,北面的云层正压向喀喇昆仑山脉;哈格里夫斯曾向他们喊话,鼓励跟上,之后他决定下撤。
出自希拉里自述
原文引用 3 处
「I was troubled by the weather.」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
「Alison Hargreaves encouraged us to follow.」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
「My intuition said go down; go down now.」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
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加拿大队员杰夫·莱克斯最初决定再向上走一小段,看天气是否好转,后来也折返,经过西班牙队的4号营后沿阿布鲁齐山脊继续下撤。
原文引用 2 处
「Hillary decided to abort, but Lakes said he would continue for a short time to see if things improved.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
「They also remember the return of Lakes, who looked rather tired.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据Explorersweb,据西班牙队与大本营的无线电通话,哈格里夫斯看出天气在变坏,但认为大家仍来得及登顶。
Explorersweb未说明这段通话的具体出处
原文引用 1 处
「Hargreaves saw that the weather was deteriorating but thought there would be enough time for everyone to reach the summit.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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西班牙队的记述称,13日白天天气与前一天相近,远方中国方向晴朗,没有风。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「clear on the far Chinese horizon and perfectly windless.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「it was clear on the far Chinese horizon and perfectly windless.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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傍晚6点多,西班牙队的奥尔蒂斯通过无线电说他和格兰特最先登顶。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告;两处对确切时间的写法略有不同(约18:00与18:23)
原文引用 2 处
「Ortiz and Grant were the first two to top out.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
「Ortiz said that he and Grant had been the first to reach the summit.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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18:30过后,奥利瓦尔通过无线电说他和哈格里夫斯也已登顶,斯莱特与埃斯卡廷离峰顶不远、上行缓慢;四名登顶者因时间太晚,决定不等,开始下撤。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「he had arrived at the summit with Hargreaves and added that Escartín and Slater were very near the top, coming up slowly」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「Olivar called to say he and Hargreaves had also summited.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-20
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据AAJ,登顶时的无线电报告称天气极冷但当时无风。
AAJ的两篇文章均有记载
原文引用 2 处
「it was extremely cold, but windless at the time」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「Over the radio one of the Spanish climbers, Oritz, observed that it was a windless evening」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,晚上8点前后,来自中国方向的强风开始刮起,登顶者此后再无消息。
原文引用 1 处
「A fierce wind began blowing out of China at about 8 p.m. that evening and none of the summit climbers was heard from again.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,晚上8至9点之间,飓风级的强风袭击了4号营;加尔塞斯的帐篷几乎被吹走,两名留守者后来在23点前后弃帐,靠在被吹翻的帐篷残基旁躲风到天亮。
原文引用 2 处
「Some time between 8 and 9 p.m., a hurricane-force wind hit Camp 4, occupied by the waiting Spaniards.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「But later, at about 11 p.m., they had to abandon this tent too」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据Peter Hillary,希拉里自述,下撤到黑金字塔顶部时(约17点)风暴来袭,他在风中艰难下降,晚上7点半到达2号营,并说自己已连续攀登了20小时。
希拉里记述的风暴到达时间(约17点)早于西班牙队在4号营所述的20至21点,两人所处位置不同
原文引用 2 处
「At 5 pm, as I clipped into the ropes at the top of the Black Pyramid」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
「At 7.30 pm I reached the tiny ledges where our Camp 2 tents were pitched」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
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推测:哈格里夫斯等人可能被强风从约8500米的山脊吹落;西班牙队员据痕迹推断至少有三人从山脊坠落。
无人目击,均为事后推断
原文引用 3 处
「It is surmised that the climbers were literally blown off the mountain.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「It seems that Alison may literally have been blown off the ridge from about 8500 meters」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「Hargreaves was likely blown off the mountain.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-17
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据AAJ,8月14日清晨风已减弱,加尔塞斯和奥尔塔斯带着手脚冻伤,约8点起沿西班牙路线下撤。
原文引用 1 处
「the two Spaniards, by now suffering from frostbite to their hands and feet, started the descent at about 8 a.m.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,8月14日下午约4点,两名西班牙人在约7400米处发现了哈格里夫斯的靴子、外套和安全带。
AAJ的两篇文章均有记载
原文引用 2 处
「they spotted some clothing items well to the right of their line of descent」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「found articles of clothing belonging to Hargreaves at about 7400 meters during their descent the next day」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,他们在上方的沟槽里看到三条相互平行的痕迹;据奥尔塔斯估计,痕迹来自约8500米的山脊。
AAJ的两篇文章均有记载
原文引用 2 处
「he could distinguish three distinctive tracks running well-separated and parallel to each other」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「They could also discern three distinct tracks coming off the summit ridge」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据AAJ,奥尔塔斯远远看到南壁冰塔边缘的一处平坦洼地里有一个人形,大致与3号营(约7100米)同高;他认为那是哈格里夫斯,但并未走近确认。
原文引用 2 处
「The body was about level with Camp 3 (7100 meters)」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「He guessed that the body had to be Alison」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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关于哈格里夫斯被发现的位置,说法不一:AAJ西班牙队记述称物品在约7400米、人形在约7100米处;悼文称在约7400米;百科条目称在2号营附近。
各来源给出的高度和位置不同
原文引用 3 处
「The body was about level with Camp 3 (7100 meters)」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「to where her body was found at about 7400 meters」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「Hargreaves' body was seen out of reach near Camp 2」
Encyclopedia.com · 1995-09-04
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据AAJ,两名西班牙人到达3号营后发现物资不足、天色已晚,放弃了尝试收殓的想法,直接下撤,当晚约22点到达2号营。
原文引用 2 处
「At about 10 p.m. they reached the safety of Camp 2」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「they desperately needed to reach Camp 2」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
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据Explorersweb,莱克斯下撤时在较高的营地遭遇雪崩,据报道他最终抵达2号营,并于8月15日死于衰竭。
仅Explorersweb一家具体叙述
原文引用 2 处
「Jeff Lakes was also descending, but an avalanche caught him in his tent at a higher camp.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
「With great difficulty, he finally reached Camp 2 on the Abruzzi route, where he died of exhaustion on August 15.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
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六名登顶者此后再未出现;加上莱克斯,这次风暴共造成七人死亡。
哈格里夫斯可能的遗体曾被西班牙队员远远望见,另见相关条目
原文引用 2 处
「The six summit climbers disappeared forever.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
「Seven people died on K2.」
Peter Hillary · 1995-01-01
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8月16日,新西兰队成员到布罗德峰大本营,与斯科特·费舍尔一起用望远镜查看K2,没有发现失踪者的迹象,希拉里随后向外界发出消息。
Explorersweb的叙述依据AAJ刊载的西班牙队报告
原文引用 2 处
「Unfortunately, their search ended with negative result.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「From the Broad Peak Base Camp, Hillary then relayed the tragic news to the outside world.」
Explorersweb · 2025-02-21
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据AAJ,加尔塞斯和奥尔塔斯于8月19日被直升机从大本营接走,回国后因冻伤面临手指和脚趾的小截肢。
原文引用 2 处
「were flown out of Base Camp on Saturday, August 19.」
AAJ · 1996-01-01
「now face minor amputation to some fingers and toes」
AAJ · 1996-01-01