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据National Geographic，1924年的英国珠峰探险队之前，英国已有两次珠峰行动：1921年侦察可能的攀登路线，1922年第一次认真尝试登顶。
原文引用 1 处
「one in 1921 to reconnoiter possible climbing routes, and a second in 1922 that marked the first serious attempt at summiting.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
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据PBS NOVA，乔治·马洛里参加过此前两次英国珠峰探险。
原文引用 1 处
「had been on the two previous British expeditions to Everest in the 1920s.」
PBS NOVA ·
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据AP，1924年探险由英国皇家地理学会与阿尔卑斯俱乐部联合组织。
原文引用 1 处
「which jointly organized Mallory and Irvine’s expedition along with the Alpine Club.」
AP · 2024-10-11
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安德鲁·“桑迪”·欧文失踪时22岁，是1924年探险队里最年轻的队员。
原文引用 3 处
「at 22 Irvine had been the youngest member of the 1924 expedition」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「22岁的欧文是其中最年轻的成员」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「Irvine was 22 when he went missing.」
CBS News · 2024-10-11
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据PBS NOVA，欧文此前没有喜马拉雅或高海拔攀登经验，但擅长修理探险队使用的氧气装置。
原文引用 2 处
「only 22 at the time, had no Himalayan or high-altitude climbing experience.」
PBS NOVA ·
「adept at repairing the controversial oxygen apparatus used by the British climbers」
PBS NOVA ·
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欧文加入探险队后负责氧气装备，并参与改进了氧气瓶的设计。
扬子晚报的报道编译自《国家地理》，两者同源。
原文引用 2 处
「he was immediately appointed to serve as the oxygen officer, and he helped to improve the design of the team’s oxygen cylinders.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「加入探险队后，他负责氧气，并帮助改进了氧气瓶的设计。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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据PBS NOVA，当年的氧气装置并不可靠：欧文改进后的氧气背架仍重约30磅，当年有38个氧气瓶被发现漏气。
原文引用 2 处
「his revised oxygen rig still weighed about 30 pounds.」
PBS NOVA ·
「notoriously unreliable, and 38 of them that year were found to have leaks.」
PBS NOVA ·
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马洛里在给妻子露丝的最后一封信里写道，他们登顶的机会是“50比1”。
原文引用 2 处
「said his chances of reaching the world’s highest peak were “50 to 1 against us.”」
AP · 2024-10-11
「he wrote that his chances of reaching the world's highest peak were "50 to 1 against us."」
CBS News · 2024-10-11
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探险队员霍华德·萨默维尔把一台柯达袖珍相机借给了冲顶的两人。
原文引用 2 处
「a Kodak Vest Pocket camera lent to the climbers by expedition member Howard Somervell」
AP · 2024-10-11
「He said to me that he had forgotten his camera, and I lent him mine」
Graham Hoyland ·
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相机由谁带上去说法不一：《国家地理》和扬子晚报说是欧文携带萨默维尔借出的相机；PBS NOVA 和霍兰德转述的萨默维尔说法是相机借给了马洛里。
扬子晚报的说法编译自《国家地理》。
原文引用 4 处
「it had been Irvine who had carried the Kodak Vest Pocket Camera lent by expedition member Howard Somervell.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「当时欧文携带了探险队员霍华德·萨默维尔（Howard Somervell）借给他的柯达袖珍相机。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「who loaned his camera to Mallory.」
PBS NOVA ·
「We met Mallory at the North Col on his way up. He said to me that he had forgotten his camera, and I lent him mine」
Graham Hoyland ·
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据PBS NOVA，6月6日早晨，马洛里和欧文从海拔约23,100英尺的北坳顶部出发，计划三天后登顶。
原文引用 2 处
「On the morning of June 6, having breakfasted on a fry of tinned sardines, George Mallory」
PBS NOVA ·
「set off from the top of the North Col at 23,100 feet, hoping to reach」
PBS NOVA ·
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1924年6月8日清晨，两人从高营地出发冲顶；据说马洛里形容当天是“适合干这件事的完美天气”。
扬子晚报的报道编译自《国家地理》。
原文引用 2 处
「Early on the morning of June 8, 1924, the two men set off for the summit under conditions that Mallory is said to have described as ''perfect weather for the job.''」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「1924年6月8日清晨，两人在一个“最适合登顶的天气”出发。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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6月8日下午，队友诺埃尔·奥德尔是最后看到马洛里和欧文的人。
原文引用 4 处
「That afternoon, they were last spotted by teammate Noel Odell」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「Mallory and Irvine were last spotted, through mist, in the early afternoon of June 8 by」
PBS NOVA ·
「last spotted by one of the members of their expedition on the afternoon of June 8, 1924」
CBS News · 2024-10-11
「On June 8, 1924, Noel Odell sighted Mallory and Irvine topping one of the rock steps along the Northeast Ridge.」
AAC · 2000
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奥德尔是在云层短暂散开时看到两个很小的身影的。
原文引用 3 处
「who reported briefly noticing two tiny figures near the Second Step during a brief parting of the clouds.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「One of the dots broke past the skyline during a brief parting of the clouds, then they disappeared.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
「他说在云层短暂散开时，他在珠峰第二台阶附近看到了两个小小的身影。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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奥德尔看到两人的位置是哪一级台阶，长期存在争议：多家报道写作第二台阶；美国登山协会刊文称在哪一级台阶被看到一直有长期讨论，Mental Floss 称有人认为奥德尔可能看错了。
原文引用 3 处
「approach and climb a rock step, called the Second Step, on the mountain's」
PBS NOVA ·
「Since that fateful afternoon, at which step they were last seen has been a matter of lengthy discussion.」
AAC · 2000
「One expedition member said he spotted the climbers moving across the Second Step—the penultimate of three rocky expanses just below the summit—though some believed he may have been mistaken.」
Mental Floss · 2024-10-11
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据AP，两人最后被看到时距峰顶约800英尺（245米）。
原文引用 1 处
「were last seen around 800 feet (245 meters) from the summit.」
AP · 2024-10-11
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随后云层再次合拢，两人从此消失。
原文引用 3 处
「Then they were gone.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「然后他们两人就永远消失了。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「then they disappeared.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
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据PBS NOVA，不久后一阵突如其来的雪飑给上部山坡盖上了一层薄薄的新雪。
原文引用 1 处
「Shortly afterwards a sudden snow squall plastered the upper slopes with a thin layer of new snow.」
PBS NOVA ·
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据PBS NOVA，奥德尔撤回北坳，整夜守望上方，没有看到任何迹象；两天后他再次上到两人最后的营地，没有人回来过，探险队不得不接受马洛里和欧文已经遇难。
原文引用 3 处
「Odell retreated to the North Col but kept watch all night for」
PBS NOVA ·
「when two days later Odell began the long climb back」
PBS NOVA ·
「The expedition had to accept that Mallory and Irvine were lost.」
PBS NOVA ·
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据PBS NOVA，奥德尔在《珠峰之战1924》中写道，没有直接证据，但考虑到两人最后被看到的位置，他认为两人登顶的可能性很大。
原文引用 1 处
「considering their position when last seen, I think myself there is a strong probability that Mallory and Irvine succeeded.」
PBS NOVA ·
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1933年英国探险队在东北山脊高处（PBS NOVA 称位于路线上约27,750英尺）发现一把冰镐，被认为属于欧文。
原文引用 3 处
「In 1933, an ice axe was found on the route at 27,750 feet.」
PBS NOVA ·
「members of the 1933 expedition did find an ice ax that belonged to Sandy Irvine high on the northeast ridge」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「他们在东北山脊的高处发现了桑迪·欧文的冰斧」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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1953年5月29日，埃德蒙·希拉里和丹增·诺盖从尼泊尔一侧首次登顶珠峰，这是目前公认的首登。
原文引用 2 处
「New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay scaled the mountain on May 29, 1953.」
CBS News · 2024-10-11
「1953年5月29日，英国探险队两名队员第一次从尼泊尔境内的南坡登上珠穆朗玛峰顶。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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据报道，1975年一名中国登山者在冰镐发现处正下方约750英尺见到一具遗体；这一目击成为1999年马洛里与欧文研究探险队划定搜索区域的依据。
原文引用 2 处
「in 1975 a body was found 750 feet directly below the ice axe by a Chinese climber」
PBS NOVA ·
「That sighting became the basis for the target area of the 1999 Mallory Irvine Research Expedition.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
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据AAC，安克认为，马洛里和欧文没能爬上第二台阶。
原文引用 1 处
「My inability to make the moves reinforces my belief that Mallory and Irvine were not able to surmount this formidable obstacle.」
AAC · 2000
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1999年，马洛里与欧文研究探险队的登山者康拉德·安克在珠峰北壁发现了马洛里的遗体。
原文引用 3 处
「Mallory’s body had been found by the alpinist Conrad Anker, as part of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「which is when I saw the remains of George Mallory.」
AAC · 2000
「Mallory's body was found less than 2,000 feet (600 meters) from the summit by the U.S. rock climber Conrad Anker.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
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1999年探险队在原地为马洛里举行了安葬，用碎石覆盖遗体，没有把遗体运下山。
原文引用 2 处
「the team performed a burial on the mountain」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「The expedition interred Mallory where he lay by heaping loose stones over him.」
Graham Hoyland ·
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马洛里遗体所在海拔说法不一：扬子晚报称约8190米；Mental Floss 称在26,700英尺（约8140米）。
原文引用 2 处
「1999年，一支美国攀登队在珠穆朗玛峰北坡大约海拔8190米处发现了马洛里的遗体」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「somewhere below Mallory’s final resting place at 26,700 feet.」
Mental Floss · 2024-10-11
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马洛里遗体腰间系着一根绳子。
原文引用 2 处
「Mallory's remains were tied by a rope around the waist」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
「A thin cotton rope was around his waist」
Graham Hoyland ·
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推测：从遗体上的绳子和伤情看，两人可能是在结组状态下发生坠落的。
原文引用 3 处
「evidence that suggested to Anker that Mallory and Irvine were roped together in their final moments.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「had injuries suggesting that the pair had fallen while connected together.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
「it seemed likely that he had been a victim of a fall while roped to Irvine.」
Graham Hoyland ·
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推测：马洛里的护目镜放在口袋里，有人据此推测坠落可能发生在傍晚下撤途中或能见度差的时候。
原文引用 2 处
「His dark snow goggles were in his pocket, which led to speculation that the fall could have occurred in the evening as the two had been descending.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「one pair of goggles were in Mallory’s pocket, suggesting he was descending in darkness or poor visibility when he fell」
Graham Hoyland ·
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马洛里身上没有找到他原本打算放在峰顶的妻子照片。
原文引用 3 处
「The photograph of his wife that Mallory had planned to leave on the summit wasn’t with him.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「which were missing a photograph of his wife that the climber had planned to leave on the summit.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
「而在他保存完好的随身衣物中没有发现妻子的照片。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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马洛里遗体旁没有找到相机。
原文引用 2 处
「攀登队也没有发现他们携带的照相机」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「most importantly there was no camera.」
Graham Hoyland ·
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据AAC，安克在借助了梯子的情况下爬过第二台阶，他把难度评为5.10 A0。
原文引用 1 处
「As I climbed it, with the aid of the ladder, I would call it 5.10 A0—damn hard.」
AAC · 2000
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2024年9月，《国家地理》纪录片团队（金国威、埃里希·罗普克、马克·费舍尔）在珠峰北壁下方的中绒布冰川发现一只从冰里融出的旧皮靴，靴里有部分遗骸。
原文引用 4 处
「In September, on the broad expanse of the Central Rongbuk Glacier, below the north face of Mount Everest, a National Geographic documentary team that included the photographer and director Jimmy Chin」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「The sock and boot were found at a lower altitude than Mallory’s remains, on the Central Rongbuk Glacier below the North Face of Mount Everest.」
AP · 2024-10-11
「a National Geographic documentary team, including the Oscar-winning director Jimmy Chin and the climbers and filmmakers Erich Roepke and Mark Fisher」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
「a National Geographic team discovered a boot, still clothing the remains of a foot, on the peak's Central Rongbuk Glacier.」
CBS News · 2024-10-11
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发现靴子的前几天，团队在中绒布冰川上先发现了一个标着1933年的氧气瓶。
扬子晚报和 Mental Floss 均转述《国家地理》的报道。
原文引用 3 处
「We discovered an oxygen bottle marked with a date on it that said 1933」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「金国威说，在他们发现这只靴子的前几天，还在中绒布冰川发现了一件不同寻常的遗物，那是一个标有日期的氧气瓶，上面写着1933年。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「after locating an oxygen canister dated 1933」
Mental Floss · 2024-10-11
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金国威认为，这只靴子大约是在他们发现前一周才从冰里融出来的。
Mental Floss 转引自《国家地理》的采访。
原文引用 2 处
「I think it literally melted out a week before we found it.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「I think it literally melted out a week before we found it,」
Mental Floss · 2024-10-11
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靴内袜子上有一个红色标签，缝着“A.C. IRVINE”字样。
各家均转引金国威接受《国家地理》采访时的说法。
原文引用 3 处
「there’s a red label that has A.C. IRVINE stitched into it.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「我掀开袜子，上面有一个红色标签，缝着A.C. IRVINE的字样。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
「a red label that has A.C. IRVINE stitched into it,」
CBS News · 2024-10-11
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这只靴子发现的位置比马洛里遗体所在的位置更低。
原文引用 2 处
「The sock and boot were found at a lower altitude than Mallory’s remains」
AP · 2024-10-11
「further down the mountain from Mallory's remains.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
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据Explorersweb，这次没有找到相机或其他物品。
原文引用 1 处
「No camera or any other item was reportedly found.」
Explorersweb · 2024-10-11
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金国威没有公开具体发现地点，理由是不想招来搜寻纪念品的人。
原文引用 3 处
「he says he wants to discourage trophy hunters.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「Chin did not say exactly where the remains were found because he wants to discourage trophy hunters.」
AP · 2024-10-11
「金国威没有说明发现欧文遗骸的具体地点」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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遗骸已交给负责珠峰北侧登山许可的中国西藏登山协会。
原文引用 3 处
「turned it over to the CTMA」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「The partial remains are now in the possession of the China Tibet Mountaineering Association」
AP · 2024-10-11
「The team sent the remains to China Tibet Mountaineering Association」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
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欧文家族愿意提供DNA样本与遗骸比对，以确认身份。
原文引用 3 处
「Members of the family have volunteered to share DNA samples to compare with the remains in order to confirm their identity.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「The Irvine family has volunteered to take a DNA test so that the identity of the remains can be conclusively determined.」
Live Science · 2024-10-11
「The Irvine family has volunteered to compare DNA test results with the remains to confirm his identity.」
AP · 2024-10-11
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推测：欧文的曾侄女朱莉·萨默斯认为，遗骸可能是被雪崩带下山，又随冰川移动受到挤压。
扬子晚报的报道编译自《国家地理》。
原文引用 2 处
「Summers suspects that the remains were swept down the mountain by avalanches and crushed by the moving glacier.」
National Geographic · 2024-10-11
「她怀疑欧文的遗体可能因为雪崩而被冲下来，然后被移动的冰川压碎。」
扬子晚报 · 2024-10-12
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两人是否在遇难前登顶，至今仍没有证据能够证明。
原文引用 3 处
「There is still no such evidence」
AP · 2024-10-11
「this finding will not end the mystery surrounding the greatest question around the ill-fated climb of Mallory and Irvine」
Explorersweb · 2024-10-11
「To this day no one knows what happened to George Mallory and Sandy Irvine.」
PBS NOVA ·
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据AAC，第二台阶是一道约90英尺高的垂直岩障，海拔约28,300英尺，是这条路线上最难的一段。
原文引用 1 处
「a 90-foot vertical barrier at an elevation of 28,300 feet: the Second Step, the most challenging bit of it all.」
AAC · 2000
归途路全球户外事故地图档案
