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早年的尝试大多走意大利一侧的狮子山脊；英国人温珀从 1861 年起多次尝试，并曾与意大利向导卡雷尔同行。
原文引用 3 处
「Before its first ascent, most attempts took place via the Lion Ridge on the Italian side.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「Between 1861 and 1865, he made seven attempts, most of them on the Italian side and often in the company of Carrel.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「from 1861 to 1865, made several attempts to summit the Matterhorn. He initially teamed up with Italian guide Jean-Antoine Carrel」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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1865 年夏天之前，马特洪峰是阿尔卑斯山脉最后几座未被登顶的大山之一。
原文引用 2 处
「By the summer of 1865, almost every major peak in the Alps had been climbed. The Matterhorn was the only big one left.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「It was one of the last major Alpine peaks to be conquered.」
The Local · 2015-05-25
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断掉的那段绳子是最旧、最弱的一条，原本只作备用，比队伍用的另外两条安全绳细得多。
原文引用 4 处
「the rope between the survivors and the four men that fell was the oldest and weakest they had brought with, only meant as a reserve」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「The full rope was supposed to be used only as a spare. It was about half the width and much weaker than the two other safety ropes」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
「Why was the rope used not the one intended for the purpose, but a somewhat battered spare?」
inalto ·
「the thin backup rope snapped」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
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道格拉斯勋爵的遗体始终没有找到。
原文引用 2 处
「The body of Douglas was never recovered.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Lord Douglas' body has never been found.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
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事后有传言称绳子是被人割断的，矛头指向老陶格瓦尔德或温珀。
原文引用 3 处
「Rumors started and Taugwalder Sr. and Whymper were accused of cutting the rope.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「Zermatt gossip darkly hints that the elder Taugwalder cut the rope」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「Could it have been that old Taugwalder panicked and deliberately cut the rope?」
inalto ·
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据马克·吐温《浪迹海外》，据温珀所说，绳子断头没有被割的痕迹，只有断裂的痕迹。
原文引用 1 处
「Mr. Whymper says that the ends of the rope showed no evidence of cutting, but only of breaking」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
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当局在采尔马特展开官方调查，结论认定生还者无过错，但割绳的传言并未平息。
原文引用 3 处
「An official inquiry was opened in Zermatt to determine what happened to the rope. Although the survivors were cleared, the rumors never went away.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「In the end, Whymper and Taugwalder were exonerated, but the controversy continued.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「despite formal inquiries that cleared the guides」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
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事故在英国引起轩然大波，《泰晤士报》批评登山无用，维多利亚女王据报道曾考虑禁止登山。
原文引用 3 处
「Queen Victoria considered outlawing the climbing of mountains.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「she asked the government to consider banning mountaineering」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「The Times of London denounced the ascent and deplored “the utter uselessness” of the sport of mountaineering.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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马特洪峰首登与随后的山难被视为阿尔卑斯登山“黄金时代”的结束。
原文引用 4 处
「The first ascent of the Matterhorn marked the end of the Golden Age of Alpinism.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「The first ascent of the Matterhorn marked the end of the golden age of alpinism.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Although this marked the end of the Golden Age of alpinism」
Outlook Traveller · 2014-09-08
「is seen as marking the end of the ‘Golden Era of Climbing’ from 1854 to 1865」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
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1865 年，卡雷尔不再与温珀合作，转而带领一支意大利队伍从意大利一侧攀登。
原文引用 3 处
「Carrel withdrew at the last moment to lead an Italian team up the Italian side of the mountain」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Unbeknownst to Whymper, Carrel was quietly mounting his own attempt on the Matterhorn with an Italian team.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「when Whymper and Carrel's paths parted」
inalto ·
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温珀在采尔马特临时拼凑了一支队伍：道格拉斯勋爵、哈德森牧师、哈多，法国向导克罗兹，以及陶格瓦尔德父子两位瑞士向导。
原文引用 3 处
「Whymper’s group included Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, and Douglas Hadow, along with French guide Michel Croz and father-and-son Swiss guides, the Taugwalders (both named Peter).」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「put together a patchwork team of climbers」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Whymper managed to cobble together an unwieldy team of seven men of varying experience」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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队员哈多是经验很少的新手。
原文引用 3 处
「novice climber Douglas Hadow slipped」
The Local · 2015-05-25
「his young and inexperienced companion, Douglas Robert Hadow」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
「the least experienced climber, Douglas Hadow」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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1865 年 7 月 13 日，队伍从采尔马特出发，走瑞士一侧的霍恩利山脊。
原文引用 3 处
「We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half past five」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「in the morning of July 13, they set off up the Hörnli Ridge」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「Together, they set off on 13 July to make their attempt on the summit.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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第一晚的宿营地点说法不一：温珀自述在约 11000 英尺处搭帐篷；On Verticality 说在 3380 米处；Snow Magazine 说大致在今天霍恩利小屋的位置；国家地理说在海拔 8000 英尺的黑湖（Schwarzsee）。
原文引用 4 处
「we had found a good position for the tent, at a height of eleven thousand feet」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「They first climbed up to 3,380 meters (11,090 feet) and set up a bivouac for the night.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「After camping for the night, roughly where the Hörnli Hut is situated now」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
「They camped at 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) at Schwarzsee on July 13」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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7 月 14 日天一亮队伍出发，陶格瓦尔德的一个儿子返回采尔马特，其余七人继续攀登。
原文引用 2 处
「One of the young Taugwalders returned to Zermatt.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「The next morning, they set off at dawn with Joseph Taugwalder returning to Zermatt.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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上午 9 时 55 分，队伍到达约 14000 英尺高处，即顶峰下陡峭部分的底部。
原文引用 3 处
「nine-fifty-five, when we stopped for fifty minutes, at a height of fourteen thousand feet」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「at 09:55 they reached the foot of the upper peak, at roughly 4,265 meters (14,000 feet)」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「By 9:55 am they were at nearly 14,000 feet」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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接近顶峰的一段转到北壁一侧，岩缝里积了雪，岩石上有薄冰，需要小心攀爬。
原文引用 3 处
「These were at times covered with a thin film of ice.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「a layer of snow had filled the crevices and thin film of ice had formed over the rock」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「They crossed over the ridgeline to the north face and ascended until the slope eased off.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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最后一段坡度变缓后，温珀和克罗兹冲向顶峰，同时登顶。
原文引用 3 处
「Croz and I, dashed away, ran a neck-and-neck race, which ended in a dead heat.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「Whymper and Croz made a mad dash for the summit, and reached it at the same time.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「arriving at the top in a dead heat to share the glory」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
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登顶时间说法不一：温珀自述及多篇报道为下午 1 时 40 分；1865 年《曼彻斯特卫报》的当时报道说是下午 2 时。
《曼彻斯特卫报》说法见 CSMonitor 转载的节选
原文引用 3 处
「At 1:40 P.M., the world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered!」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「Whymper and his party reached the top at 1.40pm via the Hörnli ridge」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
「arrived at the summit at two p.m.」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
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首登队在 1865 年 7 月 14 日经霍恩利山脊登上马特洪峰顶。
原文引用 3 处
「on July 14, 1865, a seven-man team led by Edward Whymper topped out」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「A group of seven mountaineers led by Briton Edward Whymper became the first to scale the peak on July 14, 1865.」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
「on 14 July, successfully ascended the peak following the Hörnligrat shoulder and then the north wall」
Outlook Traveller · 2014-09-08
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在顶峰上，温珀和克罗兹看到卡雷尔的队伍还在意大利一侧的山脊下方，卡雷尔随后折返。
原文引用 3 处
「they spotted Carrel’s party on the opposite ridge, still 200 meters below the summit」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Carrel was so distraught he immediately turned around and began descending.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「they halted their ascent and went back down to Breuil」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
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意大利队伍当时离顶峰有多远说法不一：Explorersweb 和 On Verticality 说约 200 米；Snow Magazine 说 400 米；国家地理说 600 英尺。
原文引用 3 处
「The two men spotted Carrel’s party some 200m below.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「the Italian party were still 400 metres below on the more technical Italian ridge」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
「When they peered down over the edge, 600 feet below, they spotted Carrel and his team」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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据Explorersweb，据温珀自述，他和克罗兹在顶峰向下方的意大利队伍喊叫并推落石块，意大利人随即转身撤退。
原文引用 2 处
「I seized a block of rock and hurled it down, and called upon my companion, in the name of friendship, to do the same.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「The Italians turned and fled.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
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首登队在顶峰停留了约一个小时后开始下山。
原文引用 3 处
「We remained on the summit for one hour」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「Whymper’s group spent one hour on the summit.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「Whymper’s team remained on the summit for an hour」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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下山时克罗兹打头，哈多第二，哈德森第三，道格拉斯勋爵第四，其后是老陶格瓦尔德。
原文引用 3 处
「We agreed that it was best for Croz to go first, and Hadow second; Hudson, who was almost equal to a guide in sureness of foot, wished to be third; Lord Douglas was placed next」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「They descended in a rope line, with Michel Croz first, followed by Douglas Hadow, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder senior」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Douglas Hadow, who was in second position」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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据马克·吐温《浪迹海外》，据温珀自述，他曾向哈德森提议在难走路段把一条绳子固定在岩石上作为额外保护，哈德森同意，但没有明确决定，后来也没有这样做。
原文引用 2 处
「I suggested to Hudson that we should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and hold it as we descended, as an additional protection.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「They had not, however, attached the additional rope to rocks, and nothing was said about it.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
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据马克·吐温《浪迹海外》，据温珀自述，难走路段一次只有一人移动；下午 3 时左右，道格拉斯勋爵担心有人滑倒时老陶格瓦尔德站不稳，请温珀也系到老陶格瓦尔德的绳上。
原文引用 2 处
「Only one man was moving at a time」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「had not Lord Douglas asked me, about 3 P.M., to tie on to old Peter, as he feared, he said, that Taugwalder would not be able to hold his ground if a slip occurred」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
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生还三人在绳队中的顺序说法不一：温珀自述他与小陶格瓦尔德系在老陶格瓦尔德之后；On Verticality 说是老陶格瓦尔德、小陶格瓦尔德、温珀殿后；瑞士资讯说温珀系在父子二人之间，小陶格瓦尔德在最上方；1865 年《曼彻斯特卫报》说是温珀在前、陶格瓦尔德父子在后。
原文引用 4 处
「A few minutes afterward I tied myself to young Peter」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「Peter Taugwalder senior, then junior and Whymper last」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「Above him was Whymper, tied between the Taugwalders; the younger Taugwalder was at the top of the rope.」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
「Messrs, Haddo, Hudson; and Whymper, and the two Tangevalds」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
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下山途中，绳队前部有人滑倒，带倒克罗兹，又把哈德森和道格拉斯勋爵拽下。谁先滑倒说法不一：温珀自述和多数报道说是哈多；1865 年《曼彻斯特卫报》的当时报道说是道格拉斯勋爵。
《曼彻斯特卫报》说法见 CSMonitor 转载的节选
原文引用 4 处
「at this moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against him, and knocked him over」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「Hadow slipped, knocking over Croz and dragging Hudson and Douglas with them」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「Douglas Hadow, who was in second position, slipped and knocked Croz off his feet」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「Lord Francis Douglas happening to slip caused Croz and Messrs. Haddo and Hudson to fall」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
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温珀和老陶格瓦尔德一度拉住了下方四人，随后绳子在老陶格瓦尔德与道格拉斯勋爵之间断裂。
原文引用 2 处
「We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord Francis Douglas.」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「for a few short moments they held the men below them. Then the rope broke under Taugwalder」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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绳子断后，克罗兹、哈多、哈德森和道格拉斯勋爵四人坠落遇难，温珀和陶格瓦尔德父子三人生还。
原文引用 4 处
「Taugwalder senior, his son, and Whymper were left alive because the rope linking them to the other four snapped.」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
「It snapped, and the trio looked on helplessly as their companions fell to their deaths.」
The Local · 2015-05-25
「The four men fell to their deaths.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
「Four members of the team died on the descent.」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
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四人坠落到下方的马特洪冰川，落差约 4000 英尺（约 1200 米）。
原文引用 3 处
「onto the Matterhorn glacier below, a distance of nearly four thousand feet in height」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「their four companions fell 1,200m down the north face to their deaths」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「to a depth of 4,000 feet」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
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事故发生后，生还的三人有一段时间几乎无法移动；谁更慌乱说法不一：温珀说陶格瓦尔德父子精神崩溃；小陶格瓦尔德半个多世纪后写下的自述说是温珀发抖、几乎迈不稳步子。
原文引用 3 处
「the Taugwalders, utterly unnerved, were not only incapable of giving assistance」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「But Whymper was trembling and could scarcely take another safe step.」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
「The three survivors were so traumatized they could not move for more than half an hour.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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之后三人把绳子固定在岩石上继续下撤。
原文引用 2 处
「fixed rope to firm rocks, in addition to being tied together」
马克·吐温《浪迹海外》 ·
「fixed some rope to the rocks, and resumed their descent」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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三人在山上又过了一夜，于 7 月 15 日上午回到采尔马特。
原文引用 4 处
「They made it back to Zermatt on the morning of 15 July.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
「The survivors arrived at Zermatt on the morning of the 15th.」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
「after another night on the mountain, Whymper and the Taugwalders made it back down to Zermatt」
Snow Magazine · 2015-03-09
「finally bivouacking on a thin ledge」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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据On Verticality，事后温珀随搜寻队返回山上，找到了克罗兹、哈多和哈德森三人，7 月 19 日运下山。
搜寻的具体日期各来源表述不一，马克·吐温转述的说法是「第二天早上」找到。
原文引用 1 处
「The following day a rescue expedition, which included Whymper, went back up the mountain. The bodies of Croz, Hadow and Hudson were found, and were brought down on 19 July.」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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三天后的 7 月 17 日，卡雷尔经意大利一侧的狮子山脊完成了该路线的首登。
原文引用 2 处
「Three days later, on July 17, Carrel returned, and with Bich, completed a fine first ascent of the Italian route.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「He would return three days later to make the first ascent of the Italian Ridge.」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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据swissinfo，据报道，首登 140 周年时，瑞士猛犸（Mammut）公司仿制了断掉的那种绳子做测试，绳子在 300 公斤时断裂，测试结果倾向于意外断裂而非被割断。
原文引用 2 处
「For the 140th anniversary of the climb, Swiss manufacturer Mammut tested a rope built to resemble the one that broke. It said the rope snapped at 300 kilograms」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
「The test suggests an accident rather than a cut rope.」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
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据swissinfo，陶格瓦尔德家族后人大卫·陶格瓦尔德表示，家族认为较可能的情形是：温珀急于第一个登顶，在上山途中割断了绳子，导致老陶格瓦尔德下山时没有足够的合适绳子。
这是陶格瓦尔德家族后人的看法。
原文引用 1 处
「what we think is the most likely – that Whymper wanted to be the first to the top of the Matterhorn so he cut the rope on the ascent and then Taugwalder Snr. didn’t have enough of the right kind of rope for the descent」
swissinfo · 2015-07-09
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首登 150 周年的 2015 年 7 月 14 日，瑞士当局关闭马特洪峰一天，纪念在这座山上遇难的 500 多名登山者。
原文引用 3 处
「authorities declared a daylong 'silence' on the 150th anniversary of the first ascent to honor more than 500 climbers who have died trying to reach the top」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
「The Matterhorn itself will be closed to climbers on the day – as a mark of respect to those who died」
The Local · 2015-05-25
「more than 500 have died trying」
National Geographic · 2015-07-14
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马特洪峰海拔 4478 米，位于瑞士与意大利边境，霍恩利山脊是从采尔马特出发的常规路线。
原文引用 3 处
「The 4,478m Matterhorn (known as Cervino in Italy) lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy.」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「the Hörnli Ridge on the northeast side is the normal route from Zermatt」
Explorersweb · 2026-04-27
「the iconic 4,478-meter (14,692-foot) Alpine peak that Switzerland shares with neighboring Italy」
CSMonitor · 2015-07-14
-
On Verticality 作者推测，用错绳子很可能只是一个疏忽。
原文引用 1 处
「It was most likely a simple oversight」
On Verticality · 2021-12-30
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尽管调查认定无过错，陶格瓦尔德父子的名声长期受损，老陶格瓦尔德的生活几乎被毁。
原文引用 2 处
「The notoriety virtually ruined the elder Taugwalder’s life and threatened his son’s guiding career.」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
「Certainly the two Swiss became a kind of pariah, shunned by all」
inalto ·
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断绳的一段如今陈列在采尔马特的马特洪峰博物馆（Zermatlantis）。
原文引用 2 处
「coiled up in its glass case in the Zermatlantis Museum」
The Local · 2015-05-25
「A section of rope that broke on the first ascent of the Matterhorn is displayed in the Zermatt museum.」
swissinfo · 2015-07-01
归途路全球户外事故地图档案
